
Driving the King's Highway
The King's Highway is one of the oldest continuously used routes in the world, and one of the most beautiful drives in Jordan. It runs along the highlands from Madaba toward Petra, crossing deep canyons and passing castles, mosaics and quiet villages. Allow a full day to enjoy it, or better still, two.
An ancient road
For thousands of years, travellers have followed this route along the edge of the highlands, where water and farmland were easier to find than in the desert to the east. Ancient kingdoms, Nabataean traders, Roman engineers, pilgrims and merchants all used it, and many of the towns along the way grew up beside it. Today it is a two-lane road that links Madaba in the north with Wadi Musa and Petra in the south, through some of the country's finest scenery.
How long it takes
The drive from Amman to Petra along the King's Highway takes about five hours without stops. With visits to Madaba, Mount Nebo, Kerak Castle, Dana and Shobak, it easily fills a whole day from morning to evening. If you prefer a slower pace, spend a night in Kerak or Dana and continue to Petra the next day. Many travellers drive south on the King's Highway and return north on the faster Desert Highway.
Road conditions
The road is paved throughout but narrow in places, with sharp bends, steep climbs and speed bumps at the entrance to every village. The descent into Wadi Mujib and the climb out of it are especially winding. Fuel stations, restaurants and shops are found in larger towns such as Madaba, Kerak and Tafila, but are fewer between them. Drive in daylight, watch for goats and sheep on the road, and allow time to stop at viewpoints.
Travelling without a car
Public transport along the King's Highway is limited to local minibuses that connect neighbouring towns, often leaving only when they are full. They are a good way to meet local people, but they make it hard to see several sites in one day. Most visitors either rent a car or hire a private driver, who can wait at each stop and share local knowledge along the way.
The plan
Madaba
From Amman, drive about 40 minutes south to Madaba, the traditional starting point of the King's Highway. Visit the Church of Saint George to see the sixth-century mosaic map of the Holy Land, then explore other churches and the Archaeological Park, where more mosaics are displayed. Madaba is a friendly town with good bakeries, and a fine place for breakfast before the road ahead.
Madaba and Mount NeboMount Nebo
A short detour of about 15 minutes west of Madaba leads to Mount Nebo, where, according to tradition, Moses looked out over the Promised Land. Its church shelters remarkable Byzantine mosaics, and the terrace offers wide views over the Jordan Valley and the Dead Sea. Return to Madaba afterwards and follow the signs south to continue along the King's Highway.
Madaba and Mount NeboThe canyon of Wadi Mujib
South of the town of Dhiban, the road reaches the edge of Wadi Mujib, an enormous canyon often called Jordan's Grand Canyon. The road zigzags down to a dam and reservoir at the bottom, then climbs steeply up the other side. Stop at the viewpoints on the northern rim to see the layers of rock and the deep valley that runs west toward the Dead Sea.
Wadi MujibKerak Castle
Continue south to Kerak, about one and a half hours from Madaba, where a vast medieval castle sits on a mountain spur above the town. Explore its dark vaulted halls, long passages and towers, and look out from the walls over the surrounding valleys. Kerak is also a good place for lunch, with simple local restaurants close to the castle.
Kerak CastleTafila and Dana
From Kerak, the road continues south through farmland and the hill town of Tafila to the village of Dana, about one and a half hours away. The old stone village stands at the top of the Dana Biosphere Reserve, a great valley that falls from mountain cliffs to the sandy lowlands of Wadi Araba. Stop at the viewpoint, or stay the night and walk one of the reserve's trails.
DanaShobak Castle
About half an hour south of Dana, the castle of Shobak stands on a rounded hill above the surrounding plateau. Built in the twelfth century and strengthened in later periods, it has ruined walls, chapels and a long stepped tunnel that once led down to a water source. It is less visited than Kerak, so you may have it almost to yourself. Bring a torch for the passages.
Arrival at Petra
From Shobak, the road winds south for about 40 minutes to Wadi Musa, the town at the entrance to Petra. If you arrive with daylight to spare, Little Petra, a short drive north of Wadi Musa, makes a gentle introduction to Nabataean carving. Check into your hotel, rest after the long day, and prepare for an early start in Petra the next morning.
PetraFrequently asked questions
How long does it take to drive the King's Highway?
Driving from Amman to Petra along the King's Highway takes about five hours without stops. With visits to Madaba, Mount Nebo, Wadi Mujib, Kerak Castle, Dana and Shobak, plan for a full day of about nine to eleven hours. Splitting the journey with a night in Kerak or Dana makes it far more relaxed.
Is the King's Highway better than the Desert Highway?
They serve different purposes. The King's Highway is slower and winding, but it passes through beautiful highland scenery and many historic sites. The Desert Highway is straight and fast, ideal for simply getting from Amman to Petra or Aqaba. Many travellers enjoy the King's Highway in one direction and use the Desert Highway for the return.
Is the King's Highway safe to drive?
Yes, it is generally safe for careful drivers. The road is paved but narrow in places, with sharp curves, steep sections and speed bumps in villages. Drive in daylight, keep a moderate speed, and watch for animals and slow vehicles. In winter, rain or snow can make the highest sections slippery for a short time.
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