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Balqa Governorate
Central Jordan · Capital: As-Salt

Balqa Governorate

Balqa Governorate falls from cool, wooded highlands west of Amman down to the Jordan Valley and the northern shore of the Dead Sea. In a short drive you pass from pine forest to banana plantations, and from historic hill towns to the lowest land on Earth. Its capital, As-Salt, is one of Jordan's most attractive historic cities.

From highlands to the lowest land on Earth

Few areas show Jordan's changes in height as clearly as Balqa. The highlands around As-Salt rise to more than 1,000 metres and receive good winter rain, which supports forests, orchards and terraced fields. Steep, winding roads lead down through dry hills to the Jordan Valley, more than 200 metres below sea level, where winters are warm and summers very hot. At its southern end, the valley meets the northern shore of the Dead Sea, the lowest point on land. The drive from the cool hills to the warm shore takes less than an hour.

As-Salt and the towns of Balqa

As-Salt is built on three hills facing each other across a narrow valley. In the late Ottoman period it was one of the most important towns east of the Jordan River, and merchants built fine houses of honey-coloured limestone with arched windows and balconies. In 2021 the historic town was added to the UNESCO World Heritage List as a place of tolerance and urban hospitality, reflecting how Muslim and Christian families lived side by side. Other towns include Fuheis, known for its old stone churches and quiet lanes, Mahis in the green hills, and Deir Alla in the Jordan Valley.

As-Salt and the towns of Balqa
Photo: Berthold Werner · CC BY 3.0

Heritage and holy sites

Balqa holds sites important to several faiths and periods. Bethany Beyond the Jordan, also known as Al-Maghtas, is identified by many churches as the place where John baptised Jesus. It is a UNESCO World Heritage Site with remains of churches, baptismal pools and hermit caves. Tell Deir Alla, an ancient mound in the valley, revealed an Iron Age text written on plaster that mentions the seer Balaam. Around As-Salt there are shrines linked with prophets, including the Shrine of the Prophet Joshua on a hill above the city, as well as old churches and mosques in the historic centre.

Forests, springs and outdoor life

The highlands of Balqa include some of Jordan's most popular picnic areas. The pine and oak forests of Zai, north of As-Salt, offer shade, wide views and walking paths, and are especially busy on spring weekends. Springs and small streams run through valleys such as Wadi Shu'ayb, which descends towards the Jordan Valley. In late winter and early spring, the slopes turn green and almond trees blossom. In the south of the governorate, the Dead Sea shore is the place to float in the salty water and enjoy warm winter sunshine.

Valley farms and local food

The Jordan Valley section of Balqa is one of the country's main farming areas. Greenhouses and fields produce tomatoes, cucumbers, aubergines and peppers, and plantations grow bananas and citrus fruit. In the highlands, families tend olives, grapes and figs. In As-Salt, the old market street, Hammam Street, is lined with shops selling spices, nuts, dried fruit, sweets and fresh produce. Home cooking includes mansaf, maqluba and stuffed vegetables, and in some highland villages bread is still baked in traditional clay ovens.

Highlights

  • 1The historic centre of As-Salt and Hammam Street
  • 2The Historic Old Salt Museum in the Abu Jaber House
  • 3Bethany Beyond the Jordan, the Baptism Site
  • 4Floating in the northern Dead Sea
  • 5Forest walks at Zai
  • 6The old stone churches of Fuheis
  • 7Tell Deir Alla in the Jordan Valley

Frequently asked questions

What is the capital of Balqa Governorate?

The capital of Balqa Governorate is As-Salt, a historic hill town about 30 kilometres north-west of Amman. It is famous for its golden limestone houses from the late Ottoman period, its stairways and its old market street. Since 2021, the historic town has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The drive from Amman usually takes about 40 minutes.

Is the Dead Sea in Balqa Governorate?

Yes, the northern shore of the Dead Sea, where most of the resort hotels and public beaches on the Jordanian side are found, lies in Balqa Governorate. The shore continues south into other governorates, including Karak. Visitors coming from Amman usually reach the Dead Sea by driving down through Balqa, a descent of more than 1,200 metres in under an hour.

Why is As-Salt a UNESCO World Heritage Site?

As-Salt was added to the UNESCO World Heritage List in 2021 as a place of tolerance and urban hospitality. In the late Ottoman period it grew into a prosperous trading town, and its yellow limestone buildings show a mix of local and European styles. UNESCO also recognised its social traditions, in which Muslim and Christian communities shared neighbourhoods and welcomed visitors and traders.

Can you visit As-Salt and the Dead Sea in one day?

Yes. A popular plan is to explore As-Salt in the morning, when the markets are busy, and then drive down through the hills to the Jordan Valley and the Dead Sea for an afternoon float and the sunset. The drive between the two takes about 45 minutes to an hour. The Baptism Site can also be added if you start early.